Monday, March 30, 2020

DESTINATION: BOHOL




BOHOL BONDING

My family's official "first getaway" (outside Luzon) was in Bohol many, many years ago -- way before it became a tourist hotspot. Our two kids were teeners then.

Through Mabuhay Miles (Phil. Airlines' mileage promo for frequent flyers), Neri, my ever reliable wife, accumulated more-than-enough points on her trips that our family's roundtrip Manila-Bohol plane fares were for free.

Our plane landed in the morning in Tagbilaran City -- a typical tranquil, no-frills town that could be juxtaposed to the urban jungles (polluted, traffic-laden, noisy) of Metro Manila. Rightfully so...



To give thanks for a safe trip, our first destination -- as soon as the sun was in the horizon -- was the Baclayon Church. Yes we saw how it was before the devastating earthquake occurred. Neri and Jaila, my daughter, were offered (for free) wrap-around cloths (to serve as skirt) before entering the church proper as they were in shorts and proper church decorum was required. As we walked through the center aisle, the early morning sun rays penetrated the stained glass windows and bathed the whole church in resplendent colors. The visit was historically educational as well. Just seeing the centuries-old altar, bas relief and retablos were truly awe-inspiring... 


We then moved on to Panglao Island where we checked into Alona Tropical Beach Resort. After settling down, we wasted no time and began our road trip to Chocolate Hills in Carmen where you can find the most uniform cone-shaped hills. The long drive gave us a glimpse of the unspoilt and protected cover of Bohol overlooking the majestic sea with mangroves all over. Along the way, we passed by the man-made forest located between the towns of Bilar and Loboc. This is a two-kilometer stretch of densely planted mahogany trees and other green foliage and fern of different species. We stopped for a while and basked in its richly oxygenated air.


Upon reaching the hills, we braved the climb-by-foot to get a good vantage view for what else but clean fresh air and the automatic photo op that Filipinos are greatly known for when they hit the road. The hills (looking pretty much like unwrapped Hershey's Kisses) were mostly brown because grass is dried during summer and naturally greens when the rains come.


The tour driver told us that it will be another long trip to the Tarsier Sanctuary (Corella and Sikatuna cities) where tarsiers live in the wild so we had to (guiltily) settle with seeing the wide-eyed primates in captivity at the Loboc Tarsier Conservation Area (which actually is not supported by the Philippine Tarsier Foundation as it keeps the creatures in non-conducive captive conditions). All four of us had an exuberant laugh when the timid cutie the size of a newborn kitten hopped about like a frog (I thought all the while that it walked on four legs) to a corner avoiding ogling intrusive humans like us. The joy was short-lived as we had our conscience snapping back at us for the invasion. After that, we promised never again.


The Loboc River cruise was an eye-opener for me. The brackish, turquoise water is, to my judgment, naturally perfectly clean. The locals take good care of their beloved river for there were no flotsam and jetsam (plastics, murk and garbage) on the river and along the riverbanks. What a joy to see young boys diving from trees into the river for summer frolickin' fun. We were told that locals didn't even do their laundry or domestic washing on the river to preserve its pristine state. The water's turquoise because of the minerals coming from the mountain.

Along the tour, we passed by a choir (of locals residing in the area) who serenaded both foreign and Pinoy tourists with folk songs. A sumptuous buffet lunch (mostly seafood complete with fruits in season) -- the main attraction -- was enjoyed by those on board. Imagine yourself dining al fresco while cruising with your family. A beyond reproach day indeed!


We went to Pamilacan Island the following day to see the dolphins. Every time a boatman spots a pod of dolphins in the horizon, all the other boats rush to get near. We didn't have much luck that morning to close in -- as the friendly sea creatures were really quick -- so our son Paolo had to contend with long shots on his camera. The ocean salt spray and the adrenalin pump that morning (race after the dolphins) surely gave us a good rush!


The waters around Balicasag Island -- a  habitat and haven for numerous species of fish -- is a protected sanctuary perfect for scuba diving and snorkeling. About a kilometer away from the island, we had to transfer from our motor boat to paddled bancas so as not to destroy the coral reefs. You get into the water and swim with the fishes. Skyflakes lang ang katapat ng mga isda para makita mo sila nang malapitan. You crush it underwater in your palm and watch how they go for the crumbs. We snorkeled to what we thought was a natural stone crag. Surprise! Surprise! It was a hill of prickly sea urchins! We also saw two young male Caucasians free diving in the reef using only snorkels. Rush. Rush. Rush. And more adrenalin rush...




Before going back to the resort, we stopped over at Virgin Island, a now-you-see-now-you-don't sandbar in the middle of the sea. The low tide that day cooperated with us for our much loved jumpshot selfies. How on earth did a beach suddenly appear (kanta yon, ah) from out of nowhere? In its natural nakedness, it was pristine paradise where the sand and sea mingled as one. It was heaven-on-earth!




Our remaining days were spent enjoying Alona Beach -- chilling, bumming and swimming around.  And the starfishes...never to be brought home as souvenirs because the sea is their home. We all just basked in the moments that we had this opportunity to commune with nature. The beachfront was only twenty or so steps from our cottage that had a small practice pool for scuba diving enthusiasts.


Nighttime along the beach is exceptional. You don't see the sea in its total darkness but you see the moored fishing boats so far away...and the moon causing the water to glisten. They set chairs and tables with lamps on the beachfront featuring live music for everyone to enjoy. The music-loving Boholanos are known for that. Walk along the stretch, you can find other places offering the same fare. Sadly, the overlapping music of competing restos down the tourist-y area then becomes noise. Sapawan eh.


With sun-baked skins, we walked barefoot; enjoyed the warm sand and cool air; ate barbecue dinner al fresco; watched fire dancers; and, had a couple of beers to celebrate our last night on the island.

Every minute of our Bohol sojourn was worth it even though we had to contend with our adobo and rice meals, egg sandwich and noodles for breakfast, etc. at the start to stretch our budget and enjoy the perks the Bohol trip offered. As it was our first getaway, certain adjustments and budget tweaks had to be made -- all for good. Then on, we fine-tuned the art of family travelling and vacationing.

Bohol was a good kick-off for the family. Many more memorable family trips followed through the years.
 
We'll be back, Bohol...soon.

 Walk in love 
A sandy beach, we're barefoot
We walk in love
A time and place so sacred
Only lovers see the magic it can be

We came, we saw, we fell in love...